In the heart of the Xiangjiang River, dividing the bustling city of Changsha, lies a long, slender island known as Orange Isle (Juzizhou). I had heard it was a must-see, but I expected just a simple park. Instead, I found a place that perfectly encapsulates the spirit of modern China—where deep history meets youthful energy.
I visited on a warm, humid afternoon, typical of Hunan weather. To get there, I took the tourist tram that runs the length of the island. The park is enormous—over 5 kilometers long. As the tram rolled along, I saw families flying kites, elderly couples practicing Tai Chi under the shade of ancient orange trees, and young lovers taking selfies. The vibe was relaxed, a stark contrast to the skyscrapers visible across the river on the Changsha skyline.
The highlight of the island, and the reason many people come, is the massive sculpture of a young Mao Zedong. I had seen pictures, but they don’t convey the scale. The “Orange Isle Head” sculpture is colossal—32 meters high and 83 meters long. It depicts the young Mao in his 20s, with long hair, looking out towards the city with a determined gaze. I stood at the foot of the statue, craning my neck back. The level of detail is incredible; you can even see the texture of his hair.
Standing there, I thought about the poem Mao wrote, *Changsha*, where he asks, “Who rules over man’s destiny?” It’s a powerful moment. You feel the weight of Chinese history standing before this giant image of the man who changed the nation. Yet, around the statue, life goes on. Children run around playing tag, oblivious to the heavy political history.
I decided to walk back along the riverbank. The park is filled with orange trees (hence the name). While I wasn’t there in the autumn when the oranges are ripe and the scent fills the air, the green canopy provided a lovely shade. The view of the Xiangjiang River is wide and majestic. Boats chug by slowly, and the lights of the city begin to twinkle on the opposite bank as the sun sets.
There is also a sense of peace here. I found a quiet bench near the water, away from the main crowds. I watched the river flow, thinking about how this river has witnessed centuries of history, from the ancient poets to the modern metropolis. Orange Isle is not just a park; it’s the lungs of Changsha and a monument to its past. It’s a place where you can feel the pulse of the city. If you want to understand Changsha, you have to take a walk on Orange Isle.