I arrived in Fenghuang Ancient Town (Phoenix Town) in the late afternoon, but let me tell you, if you want to experience the magic of this place, you have to wait for the sun to go down. Fenghuang is often described as the most beautiful town in China, and stepping onto its cobblestone streets, I felt like I had wandered onto a movie set from centuries past.
The town is built along the Tuo River, and its soul lies in the wooden stilt houses, or “Diaojiaolou,” that seem to grow directly out of the water. During the day, it’s picturesque and charming. I visited the former residence of the famous writer Shen Congwen, wandering through the quiet courtyards where ink and history seem to linger in the air. But the town has a split personality.
As dusk fell, the transformation began. I walked down to the riverbank, and suddenly, thousands of red lanterns flickered to life, reflecting in the dark, swirling water of the Tuo River. The effect is hypnotic. The ancient wooden facades glowed warm yellow against the night sky. I hired a small wooden boat to drift down the river. The boatman, an old man with a weathered face, sang a local folk song, his voice echoing softly off the stone bridges. It was a moment of pure, storybook romance.
However, Fenghuang is not a dead museum; it is a living, breathing place. Walking along the banks, the air smells of grilled fish (the local specialty is Tuojiang fish), spicy stink tofu, and the sweetness of sugar-coated haws. Bars and cafes line the waterfront, blasting modern music that competes with the chirping of cicadas. It’s a strange but fascinating mix of ancient tradition and modern nightlife. I sat by the river, sipping a local rice wine, watching people drift by on boats, their faces illuminated by the lanterns.
The next morning, I woke up early to catch the town before the crowds arrived. Mist clung to the river, and women were washing clothes in the water, beating the fabric against stones just as they have done for hundreds of years. It was a stark contrast to the neon lights of the night before. This, I realized, is the real Fenghuang. It is a place of history and myth, of Miao ethnic culture and river legends. Whether you are looking for a romantic getaway or a journey into China’s past, Fenghuang wraps you in its watery embrace and doesn’t let go.